History of Fashion
The years preceding revolutions are sometimes as interesting as those that change history. And although the greatest change of the first half of the twentieth century occurred in the 1920s, the previous decade laid the foundations that would enable fashion to enter into true modernity and women’s freedom, in all respects. Be the true protagonist.
The decade fashion began strongly influenced by the Russian Ballet and Orientalist aesthetics. Mata Hari and Isadora Duncan show more skin than they cover with a cloth and the women begin to shorten skirts until showing the ankles and they display necklines. But World War I changes everything and the silhouette that dominates the trend in 1918 is in the form of a tube, in which the body must be concealed, as much as possible, and in which the woman who had freed herself from the “classic corset” to undergo the “straightener corset” .
It is very easy to label the pioneer and not all those who have been qualified as such have been. But that is not the case with Madeleine Vionnet. It was in many fields after creating his sewing house in 1912 after leaving Doucet, a mark he had come with the task of rejuvenating. She was the first to use the bias cut in a whole dress, which meant using more cloth but also to change completely the fall of the garment, and in trying to conceal and hide the seams of the garments, was the first to worry about the copy of his creations and made a registry with three photographs (front, back and profile) of all his creations to take them to the patent office, he created his models in a figurine of 80 cm in height so that his clients could see what the finish of the garment would be like.
She was the first designer to use mathematical and architectural concepts as the golden section, since for her most important was the proportion, and also opened the way to the synthetic fabrics by using a silk made by her fabric supplier exclusively for her.
Although his main contribution was to lay the foundations for the production of his clothes in a chain, without which today people would not understand fashion. His influence on subsequent generations of designers has been continuous and probably will never disappear.
Like Vionnet, Patou opened his sewing house in 1912. He came from a family dedicated to leather and furs but his leap to fame would come from two fields yet to be exploded: that of casual clothing and the joining of the name a clothing brand for celebrities.
Something that she did mainly with Suzanne Lenglen, a French tennis player who was the first female star of that sport and who not only became famous for her victories also did so by appearing on the track of Wimbledon with a knitted dress that showed their Arms and legs (unlike the other players who were covered from head to toe).
His use of the point paved the way for Coco Chanel and was the first to design “designer” ties. He is considered the creator of the cardigan, he was influenced by his work by artistic movements such as Cubism, he developed new fabrics for bathing suits and created exclusive lines for the practice of sports. Even some attributed the creation of the aesthetics ” Flapper “that would be iconic in the 1920s.
Downton Abbey is a recommendation to finish. A good way to see the evolution of fashion in this decade is to see “Downton Abbey” an English series that begins with the sinking of the Titanic that these days has been commemorated its centenary and that already has fascinated Vogue America and also to me, where you can see the evolution of trends in these years as well as enjoy a good time on television.